OBESITY IN CATS... and What To Do About An Overweight Cat
Ever wonder what to do about your overweight cat? Obesity in cats is very common and can predispose the cat to diabetes, Hepatic Lipidosis and arthritis. Overweight and actually obese cats outnumber cats of normal weigh and are being seen more and more commonly by veterinarians for various disorders. Weight loss plans in cats needs to be approached very carefully. This page will help you determine what to do about overweight cats so that your kitty won't have to be encumbered by obesity.
There are more cats than dogs in the USA at this time. And 40 percent of those cats are considered to be obese! Only 5 to 10 percent of all cats can be classified as only slightly overweight. In recent years Feline Diabetes Mellitus (diabetes) has become almost a daily diagnosis in animal hospitals all across America. Our cats are at risk for a number of obesity related disorders. Documented research indicates obese cats are far more prone than cats of normal body weight to Diabetes, arthritis and a A typical obese cat... 28 pounds! very serious disorder called Hepatic Lipidosis. And the 40 percent obesity figure seems to be growing.
So what is happening that predisposes our domestic felines to a life of sedentary obesity? The answer is multifactorial but to simplify, just remember this… any individual mammal (dog, cat, horse, human, etc.) will gain body weight if it consumes more calories than it burns as fuel for energy. That’s pretty simple, but true. In Nature, food acquisition has never been a sure thing for any creature… not for canines, felines or humans. So food acquisition has always been accompanied by physical exertion to capture (or cultivate) and consume the food. It is only in recent times that the unnatural situation of food excess, readily acquired and consumed with little accompanying physical exertion, has become a way of life. We humans have figured how not to have to do all that work of capturing and cultivating to build up stores of food. Through agricultural expertise we have learned how to grow food and raise livestock and to have those food sources readily available and in abundance… just in case we get hungry! We learned how to refrigerate, dry, preserve and store foods in large quantities that assured us we would not have to endure long and unsuccessful hunting forays nor suffer through famines. We have created the very same food acquisition assurances for our domestic dogs and cats. They, as we, no longer have to hunt to survive. Indeed, we no longer even have to live outdoors.
It’s interesting that our pets have mirrored our own tendency to have trouble with weight control. The major difference, though, is that we humans have complete control over what our pets eat and how much they eat. Unless your dog or cat is sneaking into the fridge and making ham and cheese sandwiches late at night when no one is around, the only way they get to eat is when YOU place the food in front of them.
Every veterinarian has repeatedly heard a serious minded dog or cat owner state “I know you think she’s overweight, Doctor, but it isn’t from the food! She hardly eats a thing.” Well… is the pet overweight from high calorie air? Maybe it’s the water… or from laying on that couch all the time. That’s it! The couch is making the kitty fat, not the food. Seriously, far too many pet owners truly believe that food intake has nothing at all to do with their pet’s weight and no amount of counseling will convince them otherwise. If that describes your position, read no further because the rest of this article is all about how to feed the proper food and in the correct quantity so that the cat will loose weight safely or maintain an optimum weight. There will be nothing in this article about the effect of high calorie air, water or comfortable furniture on the cat’s weight problem.
Any cat that is overweight should have a physical exam performed, exact weight measured and blood and urine tests run. It is vital that normal thyroid hormone levels are present and that the cat has no physical or metabolic dysfunction. If the cat is physically normal, other than the abnormal body weight from fat deposition, then a gradual and careful weight loss program can be instituted. First, let’s look at what the causes of obesity are and what we can do to correct OUR mistakes:
FREE CHOICE FEEDING
THE main reason for feline obesity (as well as obesity in other mammals) is the consumption of too much food. Deny it all you want but it is a fact.
What we do…
Many cats are fed “free choice”, which means there is food available all the time and the cat eats whenever it wants. (Pretty unnatural for a true carnivore that evolved as a hunting machine!) Free choice feeding has probably been the biggest single factor contributing to feline obesity.
What we should do…
Feed two to four small portions daily and control the amounts fed so that over a period of time the cat does not gain weight. A meal for a 175-pound human might weigh 16 to 24 ounces. A seven-pound cat weighs 1/25 of the 175-pound human. So a cat’s meal should proportionally be about 1/25 of a human meal. That comes out to between 0.6 and 1.0 ounce of food per meal for a seven-pound cat… about the same weight as a mouse. Cat owners must stop thinking in terms of “cups of food” and start thinking in terms of ounces of food.
CARBOHYDRATE
Cats, unlike most mammals, have no carbohydrate-digesting enzyme called Amylase in their saliva. Humans and dogs do and actually begin the digestion ofDry food kibble... be sure to check the protein and fat levels! carbohydrate in the mouth. In the intestine, amylase secreted from the pancreas breaks down large carbohydrate molecules into absorbable smaller units of glucose. Cats have measurably less amylase activity than humans or dogs. Nature did not intend the kitty to be a carbohydrate consumer.
What we do…
We purchase convenient, attractively packaged and preserved dry foods mainly because we can pour it in the bowl and forget it. Dry pet food must have higher levels of flour and sugar than canned foods so that the kibble will stay uniform and not fall apart. Spoiling doesn’t readily occur because of the preservatives so the kitty can eat whenever it wants and we don’t have to prepare cat meals very often. Unfortunately, especially with dry diets, because of the metabolic biochemistry that converts the high carbohydrate content in almost all of today’s commercial cat foods into stored fat, the cat is really at risk for weight gain.
What we should do…
Feed a diet consistent with the nature of a true carnivore… a meat based diet. An ideal feline diet will have a high protein level in the 35 to 45 percent range on a dry matter basis (meaning the percent in the diet when the water has been removed) and moderate fat content with a low percentage of carbohydrate (grains). A multitude of research reports have proven that diets high in protein and fat are most beneficial for carnivores. Cats cannot handle large carbohydrate loads efficiently. After a meal rich in carbohydrate the feline’s blood level of glucose tends to stay higher than normal for long periods of time. They become persistently hyperglycemic and this long term stimulus on the beta cells in the pancreas… the cells that produce insulin… renders those cells less sensitive to the blood glucose. As a result less insulin is secreted to bring down the blood sugar level. Nutritionists call this “down regulating’ of the beta cells; the insensitivity of the insulin secreting beta cells leads to what is termed “insulin resistance”. This scenario is a prelude to diabetes.
PROTEIN
We all know how cats crave mice and birds as a food source. A natural source of nutrition for carnivores, mice and birds are a perfect diet for a cat. Did you know that a mouse or a bird is composed of only 3 to 8 percent carbohydrate? And most of that is actually from what the prey was eating and is in the prey's digestive tract. The rest is water, a few minerals, and mostly protein and fat.
What we do...
Many of us purchase dry cat foods, some with food coloring to make it look like meat and with flour and sugars and preservatives. We buy these dry foods partly because they state that it is COMPLETE and Cats are natural carnivores.BALANCED for cats and because it is convenient for us to pour a few days' worth of food into a bowl for the kitty to eat whenever it wants. Unfortunately, most dry cat food brands are relatively low in protein... especially the less expensive brands that state a grain such as corn as the first (major) ingredient. Another associated problem is the myth that we often feed our cats (and dogs) too much protein. This indefensible myth... that protein causes kidney problems... is totally unfounded and has caused more dogs and cats to suffer from poor diets than just about any other cause. Go here to see reasons why this myth is just that... a myth with no scientific affirmation.)
What we should do...
We must feed cats a diet with high percentages of protein and fat and low percentages of carbohydrate (grains) if we expect them to maintain optimum body weights and a proper state of nutrition. Protein is THE key nutrient in a carnivore diet. On a dry weight basis... where the percent of ingredients is determined without any water in the ration... a feline's diet should contain 35 to 45 percent protein, 40 percent fat, and possibly just a small percentage of carbohydrate. (Remember... a true carnivore needs NO carbohydrate in the diet.) Some nutritionists suggest 25% carbohydrate---50% protein---25% fat.
CAT TREATS
We seem to think we need to reward our cats with food... and that's why cat treats are so popular. Nearly very cat caretaker has relented, too, when our cat has begun to vocalize, roam restlessly and seem to "need something". This is normal interactive behavior for a cat and has no relationship to the cat being hungry! But we perceive the kitty to be hungry so we give it a treat as a snack. And most cat treats are specially flavored to be irresistible to cats, otherwise they wouldn't sell well and there'd be no profit for the manufacturer. Give your cat a treat for vocalizing and you have rewarded it for vocalizing... and you have just taught the cat to vocalize even more. If you MUST give cat treats to your cat, read below how to do it logically and nutritionally.
What we do…
As sensitive and caring humans, we always want to reward our kitty by providing extra special treats. Most treats for cats have high levels of carbohydrate (flower and sugars) and lots of flavor enhancers to entice the cat to eat even when it is not hungry. Cats that annoy us with vocalizing and pretending that they are starving to death sometimes are rewarded for that annoying vocalizing by being given a treat to “keep ‘em quiet”. When we provide the treat we reinforce the vocalizing, effectively rewarding the cat for making all that racket, and essentially training the cat to make even more noise!
What we should do…
Stop feeding treats to the overweight cat. IF you think your cat NEEDS a treat, cut up little bits of cooked chicken or fish and feed as a natural protein treat… not a treat made from grains, food coloring, propylene glycol, and flavor enhancers. And NEVER feed a treat as a means of stopping a cat from vocalizing because it has the exact opposite effect and actually reinforces the cat’s vocalizing/begging behavior. A mouse... natural prey for a cat.
NUTRIPET PET FOODS ARE JUST WHAT VETS RECOMEND AND CATS LOVE IT!!
LABEL RECOMMENDATIONS
All pet foods come with Recommended Feeding instructions. The problem is that these recommendations are NOT absolute requirements even though most pet caretakers think they have to feed their pet the recommended amounts. Most house kept dogs and cats, if fed at the amounts stated in the label recommendations, will eventually become overweight. Pay attention to your pet's body weight (size) and just by simple observation decide if it is overweight. If so, don't feed so much.
What we do…
Feeding the “Recommended ” daily portions indicated on pet food labels will nearly always result in feeding more calories than the animal needs for an average day’s energy requirements. The carbohydrate excess, unneeded as fuel for metabolism or physical activity, gets converted to fat and stored in the cat’s fat reserves. The odds are very high that if you feed the size and numbers of meals suggested on the pet food label’s feeding recommendations, the cat (or dog) will end up overweight.
What we should do…
Adjust the amount fed to the cat’s body character and physical activity. If the cat looks and feels overweight… it is! You are feeding too much for that cat’s daily needs for energy for exercise or physical activity; and regardless of what the pet food label’s suggested amounts to feed are, you must feed less than that if the cat is to have a normal (healthy) body weigh.
EXERCISE
What we do…
We fill the bowls with food and water, clean the litter box, and say “See you later, Kitty, I’m off to work”. OK… let’s say that you can’t help it. You simply are not going to change the food amounts, kinds and portions you have always been feeding your overweight cat. If you are to be successful in promoting weight loss in your cat you will have to increase its’ energy (calorie) burning activities. This is much easier to do with a dog by taking it for a walk or run, throwing a ball, swimming, etc. Good luck going for a run with your cat! Most cats spend most of their time sleeping on the couch, are left alone for long periods of time and really have nothing happening in the home that would trigger a carnivorous hunter’s interest levels. There is nothing to chase, nothing to hide from, and nothing to stalk and run down. There is nothing else to do but to take cat naps!
What we should do…
To assist in improving the kitty’s physical activity, you can add some interactive play toys to the cat’s environment. Consider adopting a friendly and playful cat from the local shelter so the solitary cat has “someone” to interact and play with. Many people believe two cats are more fun to have and more entertaining and no more trouble than a single cat. You can also buy toys that simulate an escaping prey and that really interest the cat in play behaviors. Cats can be exercised but you may need some imaginative toys and ideas to get the job done.
WHAT SHOULD YOU FEED A CAT?
Cats, unlike us humans, obtain food satisfaction less from carbohydrate than they do from protein intake. Give them a high protein mouse and they are as happy as can be. One mouse would make a good meal for an average sized cat. A typical mouse is made of 20% Protein and 9% Fat and lots of moisture. And now that you know that the cat is a true carnivore, that its metabolic pathways have been set by natural evolutionary processes to efficiently utilize meat protein as a major component of the diet, you understand why a carbohydrate rich diet simply does not make sense for felines. Cats are not plant-based grazers; they are hunters of other animals and to reach an optimum state of health they must comply with what nature programmed them to be. There are no vegetarian diets for cats. No matter what your own personal preference is regarding the ingestion of meat, by Nature’s own rules the cat requires meat in its diet. One small aspect of this need for meat is the cat's requirement for ingesting preformed Vitamin B12 (Cyanocobalamin)... preformed in another non-feline mammal. Go to this page to see how a cat's physiology is different from a dog's
Monday, June 29, 2009
The obese Pet and it's Dangers; How you can help them
THE OVERWEIGHT PET
A recent survey indicated that 40% of America's pet population is overweight. If you or your veterinarian feel that your pet would benefit from a reduction in body weight, this discussion should help you to understand how to help overweight dogs lose weight. Weight loss for obese cats is more complicated and should not be done without aClick on the image to go to OBESITY IN CATS veterinarian's supervision.
Very simply put, if your pet is overweight it is taking in (eating) more calories than it needs. Set all excuses aside ... excessive weight in an otherwise healthy pet is a direct result of consuming unnecessary amounts of food. If your pet is overweight it should be examined for heart, thyroid or other metabolic disorders. A detailed history should be taken with emphasis on frequency of exercise, amount and type of food being provided and other parameters relative to calorie requirements.
To begin let us set the record straight on some common misconceptions regarding obesity. Healthy dogs and cats do not need to eat every day; the pet food industry has painted the picture for us of the "eager eater." The impression is that a happy, healthy pet will eat every meal with gusto. Please do not try to entice your pet to eat if it isn’t interested. If you provide a good quality food and a liberal amount of water, your pet will eat when it wants and do better than having to eat when you want. See the pet nutrition section.
Another common myth maintains that spaying or neutering causes obesity. This is absolutely false. Any pet, neutered or not, will gain weight if it is over fed relative to its energy requirements. The surgical procedure may slightly slow the pet’s metabolism, as will normal aging, and it will then burn calories off more slowly; therefore it may require less food. Keep in mind the surgery doesn’t cause the weight gain, eating too much does and you have control over that.
The following discussion pertains to DOGS ONLY. Because of metabolic idiosyncrasies that are different from the dogs', putting a cat on a reducing diet should never be done without the close supervision of a veterinarian. Cats are prone to developing a dangerous condition called Hepatic Lipidosis if their caloric intake is suddenly restricted.
Let us explore four typical settings we veterinarians encounter when presented with a pet that is overweight. See if any of these sound familiar! The quotes are the usual responses pet owners give us when we About 40 percent overweight!politely suggest that "perhaps your pet would benefit by losing some weight"...
Type I: THE NIBBLER: "But doctor, she hardly eats a thing."
(My first thought is that whatever she is eating, it is too much!) This pet probably has food out for it all day and nibbles a little at a time. When dinner time comes and the pet picks at the left-overs, it will take the choicest morsels, leave the rest, and still appear not to have eaten very much. However over a 24 hour period "THE NIBBLER'S" total calorie intake is excessive and it gains weight.
Type II: THE BEGGAR: "But doctor, this rascal won’t keep quiet unless she gets her treats. And she won’t go to sleep at night until she gets her little dish of ice cream."
What has happened here is that the pet has discovered that the more noise and fussing it produces the more likely it is to be rewarded for this behavior. The owner finally "gives in" to keep the pet quiet and the pet sees the food as a reward. In effect the owner is training "The Beggar" by rewarding its behavior. It turns into a fun game but the pet’s health may suffer if obesity is the result.
Type III: THE GOOD DOG: "But doctor, she’s such a good dog we don’t want her to go hungry."
This pet became overweight because the owner’s signal of affection for their pet has focused on feeding. (Usually each family member secretly offers treats to the pet...and doesn't know the other family members are doing exactly the same thing!) It is an understandable trait but unfortunately for the pet it can be a case of too much of a good thing. The owners' method of showing affection should be directed more toward physical activity than feeding. Think "FETCH" not "FOOD"!
Type IV: THE GOURMET DOG: "But doctor, she just refuses to eat dog food."
In this case the pet has trained its owners to feed it such things as chicken, liver, ice cream, cookies, etc. Although most table scraps are just fine to feed, (stay away from bones of any kind!) this pet has been given a choice of what it wants to eat and has chosen certain people food. If a child is given a choice it would probably choose cake and candy over vegetables, and its health would suffer. This Gourmet Dog usually overeats because it isn’t getting a proper balance of nutrition, plus everything tastes so good there is a reward factor in eating. The solution is . . . you choose, not your pet.
What To Do About An Overweight Dog
(Be sure your veterinarian evaluates Thyroid Gland function in any overweight dog or cat. Hypothyroidism is a very common instigator of excess weight in pets and this needs to be corrected or your attempts to reduce your pet's weight will probably fail. So even if your veterinarian says thinks your dog doesn't "look like a Hypothyroid case", request the blood test for hypothyroidism anyway. I have been fooled often enough to make it a standard practice in every overweight pet I am working with. Dr Dunn.)
First of all remember that research has shown that, in general, a healthy dog can abstain from food for five days before any noticeable health effects occur. They generally don't HAVE to eat every day. (Very small breeds are an exception...but unless there's really some medical problem present, missing a day of eating isn't a major catastrophe.) Always be sure fresh water is available. So start out by feeding a very high quality, complete and balanced dog food. Look on the ingredients list...MEAT should be the first item listed, not corn. You may also want to supplement with a vitamin/mineral/fatty acid product. Be careful about over supplementing, too!.
Now record an accurate pre-diet weight. Reduce by one-third your pet’s total daily ration previously given. Include in this total all treats, snacks, or left-overs if you insist on continuing to provide these. Reweigh the pet in 2 weeks. (Remember if the pet begs for food, that's a good sign! But don’t give in. Read again if you have to about Type II)
If you find upon weighing your pet after two weeks that it has lost even a little weight, you’re on the right track; keep up this schedule! If no weight loss is evident, again reduce by one-third the amount being fed. Weigh the pet again in two weeks. Depending upon the results either keep feeding this amount or reduce again by one-third the total amount being fed. If you persist a good outcome is certain. Many veterinarians believe you should not feed the "Reduced Calorie" or "Lite Diets" or "Senior Diets"! These diets have very restricted fat levels to reduce the calories but by necessity have increased the carbohydrate percentages. This increased carbohydrate stimulates additional Insulin secretion which tells the body to store unused calories as fat! There are a multitude of overweight dogs that have actually gained weight on those "Reduced Calorie" weight loss diets. Your dog needs a meat-based diet, high in protein (which isn't stored as fat) and fat and low in carbohydrate. Now... YOU have to adjust the quantity being fed to achieve a state where the dog takes in fewer total calories than it is using for the day's energy requirements. Simple!
It is also quite important to get everyone’s cooperation in restricting the pet’s intake. There is usually someone in the household who feels sorry for the dieting pet and surreptitiously provides "just a little" something extra. More helpful would it be for the person to take the pet for a walk or a run to burn off a few calories.
Keep in mind most overweight pets have a slow metabolism. They simply don’t burn off those calories very fast and in fact don’t generally have "eager eater" appetites. Because of this slow metabolism, though, they don’t require very much; so "just a little extra" will make a big difference over a period of time.
Remember...high quality, meat-based food, control the amount fed, provide more exercise, and be persistent. Help your pet live a longer, leaner and more enjoyable life. Many types of dermatological problems are avoided if the dog or cat is consuming an optimum diet. In some cases, adding a supplement such as DermCaps, a popular Omega Fatty Acid supplement with a number of beneficial ingredients, is the key factor in avoiding repeated episodes of Hot Spots and other skin afflictions. If your dog or cat seems to lack good coat and skin health, consider upgrading the diet to a meat-based ingredient formula and adding a supplement such as DermCaps
This is why Nutripet is so good for your pet. Highly nutritious and very tasty to pets. They are full so they don't constantly eat or beg to eat.
A recent survey indicated that 40% of America's pet population is overweight. If you or your veterinarian feel that your pet would benefit from a reduction in body weight, this discussion should help you to understand how to help overweight dogs lose weight. Weight loss for obese cats is more complicated and should not be done without aClick on the image to go to OBESITY IN CATS veterinarian's supervision.
Very simply put, if your pet is overweight it is taking in (eating) more calories than it needs. Set all excuses aside ... excessive weight in an otherwise healthy pet is a direct result of consuming unnecessary amounts of food. If your pet is overweight it should be examined for heart, thyroid or other metabolic disorders. A detailed history should be taken with emphasis on frequency of exercise, amount and type of food being provided and other parameters relative to calorie requirements.
To begin let us set the record straight on some common misconceptions regarding obesity. Healthy dogs and cats do not need to eat every day; the pet food industry has painted the picture for us of the "eager eater." The impression is that a happy, healthy pet will eat every meal with gusto. Please do not try to entice your pet to eat if it isn’t interested. If you provide a good quality food and a liberal amount of water, your pet will eat when it wants and do better than having to eat when you want. See the pet nutrition section.
Another common myth maintains that spaying or neutering causes obesity. This is absolutely false. Any pet, neutered or not, will gain weight if it is over fed relative to its energy requirements. The surgical procedure may slightly slow the pet’s metabolism, as will normal aging, and it will then burn calories off more slowly; therefore it may require less food. Keep in mind the surgery doesn’t cause the weight gain, eating too much does and you have control over that.
The following discussion pertains to DOGS ONLY. Because of metabolic idiosyncrasies that are different from the dogs', putting a cat on a reducing diet should never be done without the close supervision of a veterinarian. Cats are prone to developing a dangerous condition called Hepatic Lipidosis if their caloric intake is suddenly restricted.
Let us explore four typical settings we veterinarians encounter when presented with a pet that is overweight. See if any of these sound familiar! The quotes are the usual responses pet owners give us when we About 40 percent overweight!politely suggest that "perhaps your pet would benefit by losing some weight"...
Type I: THE NIBBLER: "But doctor, she hardly eats a thing."
(My first thought is that whatever she is eating, it is too much!) This pet probably has food out for it all day and nibbles a little at a time. When dinner time comes and the pet picks at the left-overs, it will take the choicest morsels, leave the rest, and still appear not to have eaten very much. However over a 24 hour period "THE NIBBLER'S" total calorie intake is excessive and it gains weight.
Type II: THE BEGGAR: "But doctor, this rascal won’t keep quiet unless she gets her treats. And she won’t go to sleep at night until she gets her little dish of ice cream."
What has happened here is that the pet has discovered that the more noise and fussing it produces the more likely it is to be rewarded for this behavior. The owner finally "gives in" to keep the pet quiet and the pet sees the food as a reward. In effect the owner is training "The Beggar" by rewarding its behavior. It turns into a fun game but the pet’s health may suffer if obesity is the result.
Type III: THE GOOD DOG: "But doctor, she’s such a good dog we don’t want her to go hungry."
This pet became overweight because the owner’s signal of affection for their pet has focused on feeding. (Usually each family member secretly offers treats to the pet...and doesn't know the other family members are doing exactly the same thing!) It is an understandable trait but unfortunately for the pet it can be a case of too much of a good thing. The owners' method of showing affection should be directed more toward physical activity than feeding. Think "FETCH" not "FOOD"!
Type IV: THE GOURMET DOG: "But doctor, she just refuses to eat dog food."
In this case the pet has trained its owners to feed it such things as chicken, liver, ice cream, cookies, etc. Although most table scraps are just fine to feed, (stay away from bones of any kind!) this pet has been given a choice of what it wants to eat and has chosen certain people food. If a child is given a choice it would probably choose cake and candy over vegetables, and its health would suffer. This Gourmet Dog usually overeats because it isn’t getting a proper balance of nutrition, plus everything tastes so good there is a reward factor in eating. The solution is . . . you choose, not your pet.
What To Do About An Overweight Dog
(Be sure your veterinarian evaluates Thyroid Gland function in any overweight dog or cat. Hypothyroidism is a very common instigator of excess weight in pets and this needs to be corrected or your attempts to reduce your pet's weight will probably fail. So even if your veterinarian says thinks your dog doesn't "look like a Hypothyroid case", request the blood test for hypothyroidism anyway. I have been fooled often enough to make it a standard practice in every overweight pet I am working with. Dr Dunn.)
First of all remember that research has shown that, in general, a healthy dog can abstain from food for five days before any noticeable health effects occur. They generally don't HAVE to eat every day. (Very small breeds are an exception...but unless there's really some medical problem present, missing a day of eating isn't a major catastrophe.) Always be sure fresh water is available. So start out by feeding a very high quality, complete and balanced dog food. Look on the ingredients list...MEAT should be the first item listed, not corn. You may also want to supplement with a vitamin/mineral/fatty acid product. Be careful about over supplementing, too!.
Now record an accurate pre-diet weight. Reduce by one-third your pet’s total daily ration previously given. Include in this total all treats, snacks, or left-overs if you insist on continuing to provide these. Reweigh the pet in 2 weeks. (Remember if the pet begs for food, that's a good sign! But don’t give in. Read again if you have to about Type II)
If you find upon weighing your pet after two weeks that it has lost even a little weight, you’re on the right track; keep up this schedule! If no weight loss is evident, again reduce by one-third the amount being fed. Weigh the pet again in two weeks. Depending upon the results either keep feeding this amount or reduce again by one-third the total amount being fed. If you persist a good outcome is certain. Many veterinarians believe you should not feed the "Reduced Calorie" or "Lite Diets" or "Senior Diets"! These diets have very restricted fat levels to reduce the calories but by necessity have increased the carbohydrate percentages. This increased carbohydrate stimulates additional Insulin secretion which tells the body to store unused calories as fat! There are a multitude of overweight dogs that have actually gained weight on those "Reduced Calorie" weight loss diets. Your dog needs a meat-based diet, high in protein (which isn't stored as fat) and fat and low in carbohydrate. Now... YOU have to adjust the quantity being fed to achieve a state where the dog takes in fewer total calories than it is using for the day's energy requirements. Simple!
It is also quite important to get everyone’s cooperation in restricting the pet’s intake. There is usually someone in the household who feels sorry for the dieting pet and surreptitiously provides "just a little" something extra. More helpful would it be for the person to take the pet for a walk or a run to burn off a few calories.
Keep in mind most overweight pets have a slow metabolism. They simply don’t burn off those calories very fast and in fact don’t generally have "eager eater" appetites. Because of this slow metabolism, though, they don’t require very much; so "just a little extra" will make a big difference over a period of time.
Remember...high quality, meat-based food, control the amount fed, provide more exercise, and be persistent. Help your pet live a longer, leaner and more enjoyable life. Many types of dermatological problems are avoided if the dog or cat is consuming an optimum diet. In some cases, adding a supplement such as DermCaps, a popular Omega Fatty Acid supplement with a number of beneficial ingredients, is the key factor in avoiding repeated episodes of Hot Spots and other skin afflictions. If your dog or cat seems to lack good coat and skin health, consider upgrading the diet to a meat-based ingredient formula and adding a supplement such as DermCaps
This is why Nutripet is so good for your pet. Highly nutritious and very tasty to pets. They are full so they don't constantly eat or beg to eat.
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Helpful Pet Care Tips
Cat Tips
Cars - Thousands of cats get hit by cars every year. If they are lucky, they die instantly.
Car engines - Cats seek warmth. In the winter they tend to climb up inside car engines where they can be subsequently ground up.
Anti-freeze- Cats like the sweet taste of anti-freeze, and they will lick it if able. Anti-freeze is extremely toxic and your cat will die a painful death within hours of ingesting it. It can take less than a teaspoon to kill a full-size cat or dog!
Poisoning - There are people who don't like cats and will set out poison on their property. Others may put poison out to get rid of other wildlife that wanders onto their property and your cat may accidentally ingest it.
Fighting -Your cat could be killed by dogs, raccoons, or other wildlife. Some people train their dogs to attack and kill cats. Believe it or not,cats can kill each other during their fights.
FELV - Feline Leukemia destroys a cat's immune system. It is transmitted through body fluids. Even a sneeze can pass the virus from one cat to another. The vaccine for FELV is only 70 to 75% effective. Cats infected usually die within two years.
FIV - Feline Immunosuppressive Virus also destroys a cat's immune system. It is transmitted through body fluids and cuts a cat's lifespan in half. There is no vaccination for FIV.
FIP - Feline Infectious Peritonitis. FIP is always 100% fatal. Tests and vaccines for FIP are not reliable.
Animal Abuse - Cats are often shot with BB guns; burned with lighters,firecrackers; tortured by people causing loss of limbs, eyes, etc.
Starving to Death - People think that because they have lived in the same house for a number of years that their cat is too smart to wander off and get lost. NOT TRUE.
People also think that because their cat has never left the front yard that it won't go any farther. NOT TRUE.
Getting Trapped - Your cat could get lost in somebody else's garage or utility shed. He could suffer brain damage if trapped in extreme heat or could suffer frostbite if trapped in extreme cold.
Research Labs - Your cat could get stolen and sold to a research lab. This practice does go on, even in your home town!
Parasitic Infections - Your cat could eat something (rat, mouse, bird) and die of a parasitic infection.
SPCA- Your cat could get taken in by someone thinking it is a stray. They might keep your cat or take it to the SPCA where it will be euthanized.
Unintentional Poisoning - By pesticides, lawn products, etc.
Fleas, ticks, worms, ringworm - Your cat could transmit these to other pets and people in the household.
Drowning - Your cat could accidentally fall in a swimming pool and drown.
Steel-Jaw Traps - People who live in the country think it's great to let cats out to roam. But many times domestic dogs and cats get caught in steel-jaw traps intended for other animals.
Spraying - When cats go outside they smell other cats' territorial markings. This may prompt your cat to start spraying inside the house to mark his territory.
Lost and Found Hints
If you've lost a pet, here are some helpful tips:
Search your neighborhood leaving the description of your pet and your name and phone number with as many people as possible.
Post signs in the area where your pet was lost that includes a photo,detailed description, date and how you can be contacted. Note: be aware that some city ordinances prohibit posting of signs. Check with the authorities before doing this.
Visit your local animal shelter. Ask them if they have a message board that you can post a message on.
Keep looking for and asking about your pet. Often, kind-hearted neighbors may not take your pet to a shelter right away in the hopes that they'll be able to find the owner on their own.
Post a prominent advertisement in your local paper with a photo, detailed description, date and and how you can be contacted.
Besure to read the "Found" ads in your local paper regularly. Remember that others may not describe your pet the way that you would so it's important to check out any possible leads.
Found a Pet?
If you've found a pet, here are some helpful tips:
Post an ad in your local paper.
Ask all of your neighbors if they recognize the animal.
Post signs in the area where the pet was found that includes a photo,detailed description, date and how you can be contacted. Note: be aware that some city ordinances prohibit posting of signs. Check with the authorities before doing this.
Be sure to read the "Found" ads in your local paper regularly.
Barking Problem
Barking is generally considered a normal behavior that most dogs display. Some breeds tend to bark more than others, and domesticated dogs seem to bark more frequently and for different reasons than wild dogs. Barking is, after all, a method by which dogs communicate with one another and with their human companions.
However,dogs that bark in excess can become annoying or downright disruptive to the general peace. Some cities have ordinances to govern the barking of dogs and assess fines or other penalties to people who own dogs that bark excessively. Barking has even been known to cause neighborhood disputes and subsequent court battles.
It is prudent, therefore, to learn how to control your dog's barking. Todo so, it is important to understand the reasons that dog bark.
Why Do Dogs Bark? We've identified seven general reasons for barking. Each generates a different kind of bark with a unique sound.
1. Barking to induce play.
This bark is generally muffled, with accompanying tail wagging and thecharacteristic crouching with head lowered to the ground, hindquarters raised. Dogs will stop barking as the play proceeds. If you do not play with the dog, the animal will eventually give up and stop barking.
2. Barking to discipline young.
This sound usually involves a snap and a sharp bark, uttered when puppies or younger dogs do something that irritates an older dog. The bark itself generally does not persist, as one or two warnings usually stop younger animals in their tracks.
3. Barking to warn of danger.
This is a deep, repeated bark. The dog's tail will be motionless or lowered to the ground and the dog's forelimbs will be widely spaced on the ground. The barking will generally persist until the source of danger is removed or until the dog is able to retreat to a position of safety.
4. Barking to threaten intruders.
This bark may include an angry growl. The dog may raise its hackles and the hair on its back and tail. The dog will plant all four feet squarely and assume a fighting stance. As the dog barks, the teeth and gums will be readily visible. To stop such a bark, you must either remove the intruder or remove the dog from the situation. Sometimes, stepping to the dog's side and assuring it that all is well will cause it to stop barking.
5. Curiosity barking.
In general, this bark is displayed when there is some activity near a dog,but in such a place where the animal cannot have a good look. It is as if the dog is saying, "Hey, what's up?" The dog will display excitement and tend to pace erratically with a slightly wagging tail. To stop the barking, all you have to do is let the dog see what it is curious about.
6. Barking for companionship.
This is an incessant, repetitive bark, accompanied by a relatively motionless tail and concentration toward the area most associated with the dog's owners. The solution to this type of bark is to spend more time with the dog and to allow the dog access to the area where humans spend their time. This bark is often displayed by dogs that are ignored, tied out by themselves or locked up alone.
7. Barking for reward.
Finally, dogs can be inadvertently trained to bark and will persist with remarkable resistance. Barking can become associated with almost any activity that leads to reward. For instance, a dog that barks at garbage trucks because they intrude within its territory will learn that persistent barking leads to the disappearance of the trucks. This rewards the barking behavior, and a cycle is begun that is difficult to break. Persistent barking can then generalize to other objects-schoolbuses, neighbors walking by, children on the way to school, the paperboy, mailman, milkman and so on. To break the cycle, it is necessary to interrupt the natural system of reward.
Solutions to Barking:
The first five reasons for barking are rarely the cause of "excessive" or"annoying" barking. They are usually specific to certain situations and short-lived. The sixth and seventh reasons are those most likely to be considered problem barking, and they are not unrelated.
Barking for companionship can turn into barking for reward: The dog barks to get its owner's attention, the owner comes to the dog to tell it to be quiet, perhaps petting it or playing with it, and goes away again. The dog is quiet while the owner is there, but has learned that barking will bring the owner back. Thus the system of barking and reward is established. A solution, again, is to spend more time with your dog and have it near you rather than tied up somewhere separate from you. However, if your dog is separated from you and it begins to bark to get your attention, do not immediately go to the dog. It must learn that barking will not guarantee your presence. By spending more time with the dog at regular intervals not instigated by barking, your dog will feel more assured that it will get sufficient attention from you and will not have as much inclination to bark for companionship.
How do you teach a barking dog to distinguish between friends and strangers? The solution is to show the dog that certain individuals(garbage collectors, mailmen, milkmen) are, indeed, friends. To accomplish this, the dog has to be introduced to these people and given an opportunity to get to know them. While this is not always practical, it is nonetheless a potential solution. As you restrain your dog, stop delivery people and have a short conversation with them, letting them meet the dog for a brief period. Repeat and lengthen the process over the next few weeks. Eventually, your dog should accept these individuals and all will be well until your regular mailman is sick and another takes his place.
What do you do with a dog that barks at guests in your house? Onesolution is to take the dog to another room and give it something to do. Or, if the guest comes to your home often and you don't want to have to lock up the dog every time, work to gradually introduce one to the other. Have the guest get on his knees, pet the dog, offer it a treat, and more or less become part of the family. Let your dog establish the speed at which this relationship develops: Don't force it, or your dog may become alarmed by a "pushy" guest.
How do you deal with a dog that barks at the phone? This is simply a case of a dog that has been reward- ed for barking at the phone ringing. When the dog barks, someone eventually answers the phone and it stops ringing. To stop your dog from doing this, have a friend call and lett he phone ring until the dog loses interest. Continue over a period of days, and in time the dog will learn that barking at the phone accomplishes nothing.
Finally, what do you do with the dog that barks while you are away from home? There are several possible solutions. One is to act as if you are leaving, then stand outside the door until the dog barks. When it does,return and scold it verbally. Another is to get your dog a companion -but you might end up with two barkers! A third is to use a sound-activated tape recorder. When the dog barks, the sound switch turns on the tape recorder for a minute. The tape plays your voice scolding the dog. Some systems can repeat as many as 45 times while you are away.
The best way to reduce your dog's barking is to pay attention to the reasons for the bark. The best solution is prevention, so be aware of the possibilities and work to stop problem barking before it starts.
Helpful Dog Hints
Your dog gives you a lifetime of unconditional love, loyalty, and friendship. In return, she counts on you to provide her with food, water, safe shelter, regular veterinary care, exercise, companionship,and more. Take care of these ten essentials, and you'll be guaranteed to develop a rewarding relationship with your canine companion.
Outfit your dog with a collar and ID tag that includes your name, address, and telephone number. No matter how careful you are, there's a chance your companion may become lost. An ID tag greatly increases the chance that your pet will be returned home safely. Follow local laws for licensing your dog and vaccinating him for rabies.
Check with your local animal shelter or humane society for information regarding legal requirements, where to obtain tags, and where to have your pet vaccinated. Follow this simple rule: off property, on leash. Even a dog with a valid license, rabies tag, and ID tag should not be allowed to roam outside of your home or fenced yard. It is best for you, your community, and your dog to keep your pet under control at all times.
Give your dog proper shelter. A fenced yard with a dog house is a bonus, especially for large and active dogs;however, dogs should never be left outside alone or for extended periods of time. Dogs need and crave companionship and should spend most of their time inside with their family.
Take your dog to the veterinarian for regular check-ups. If you do not have a veterinarian, ask your local animal shelter or a pet-owning friend for a referral and check out our information on choosing a veterinarian.
Spay or neuter your dog. Dogs who have this routine surgery tend to live longer, be healthier, and have fewer behavior problems (e.g., biting, running away). By spaying or neutering your dog, you are also doing your part to reduce the problem of pet over population.
Give your pooch a nutritionally balanced diet, including constant access to fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for advice on what and how often to feed your pet.
Enroll your dog in a training class.Positive training will allow you to control your companion's behavior safely and humanely, and the experience offers a terrific opportunity to enhance the bond you share with your dog.
Check out our information on choosing a dog trainer. Give your dog enough exerciseto keep him physically fit (but not exhausted). Most dog owners find that playing with their canine companion, along with walking him twice a day, provides sufficient exercise.
If you have questions about the level of exercise appropriate for your dog, consult your veterinarian. Be loyal to and patient with your faithful companion. Make sure the expectations you have of your dog are reasonable and remember that the vast majority of behavior problems can be solved. If you are struggling with your pet's behavior, contact us or your veterinarian for advice.
Cars - Thousands of cats get hit by cars every year. If they are lucky, they die instantly.
Car engines - Cats seek warmth. In the winter they tend to climb up inside car engines where they can be subsequently ground up.
Anti-freeze- Cats like the sweet taste of anti-freeze, and they will lick it if able. Anti-freeze is extremely toxic and your cat will die a painful death within hours of ingesting it. It can take less than a teaspoon to kill a full-size cat or dog!
Poisoning - There are people who don't like cats and will set out poison on their property. Others may put poison out to get rid of other wildlife that wanders onto their property and your cat may accidentally ingest it.
Fighting -Your cat could be killed by dogs, raccoons, or other wildlife. Some people train their dogs to attack and kill cats. Believe it or not,cats can kill each other during their fights.
FELV - Feline Leukemia destroys a cat's immune system. It is transmitted through body fluids. Even a sneeze can pass the virus from one cat to another. The vaccine for FELV is only 70 to 75% effective. Cats infected usually die within two years.
FIV - Feline Immunosuppressive Virus also destroys a cat's immune system. It is transmitted through body fluids and cuts a cat's lifespan in half. There is no vaccination for FIV.
FIP - Feline Infectious Peritonitis. FIP is always 100% fatal. Tests and vaccines for FIP are not reliable.
Animal Abuse - Cats are often shot with BB guns; burned with lighters,firecrackers; tortured by people causing loss of limbs, eyes, etc.
Starving to Death - People think that because they have lived in the same house for a number of years that their cat is too smart to wander off and get lost. NOT TRUE.
People also think that because their cat has never left the front yard that it won't go any farther. NOT TRUE.
Getting Trapped - Your cat could get lost in somebody else's garage or utility shed. He could suffer brain damage if trapped in extreme heat or could suffer frostbite if trapped in extreme cold.
Research Labs - Your cat could get stolen and sold to a research lab. This practice does go on, even in your home town!
Parasitic Infections - Your cat could eat something (rat, mouse, bird) and die of a parasitic infection.
SPCA- Your cat could get taken in by someone thinking it is a stray. They might keep your cat or take it to the SPCA where it will be euthanized.
Unintentional Poisoning - By pesticides, lawn products, etc.
Fleas, ticks, worms, ringworm - Your cat could transmit these to other pets and people in the household.
Drowning - Your cat could accidentally fall in a swimming pool and drown.
Steel-Jaw Traps - People who live in the country think it's great to let cats out to roam. But many times domestic dogs and cats get caught in steel-jaw traps intended for other animals.
Spraying - When cats go outside they smell other cats' territorial markings. This may prompt your cat to start spraying inside the house to mark his territory.
Lost and Found Hints
If you've lost a pet, here are some helpful tips:
Search your neighborhood leaving the description of your pet and your name and phone number with as many people as possible.
Post signs in the area where your pet was lost that includes a photo,detailed description, date and how you can be contacted. Note: be aware that some city ordinances prohibit posting of signs. Check with the authorities before doing this.
Visit your local animal shelter. Ask them if they have a message board that you can post a message on.
Keep looking for and asking about your pet. Often, kind-hearted neighbors may not take your pet to a shelter right away in the hopes that they'll be able to find the owner on their own.
Post a prominent advertisement in your local paper with a photo, detailed description, date and and how you can be contacted.
Besure to read the "Found" ads in your local paper regularly. Remember that others may not describe your pet the way that you would so it's important to check out any possible leads.
Found a Pet?
If you've found a pet, here are some helpful tips:
Post an ad in your local paper.
Ask all of your neighbors if they recognize the animal.
Post signs in the area where the pet was found that includes a photo,detailed description, date and how you can be contacted. Note: be aware that some city ordinances prohibit posting of signs. Check with the authorities before doing this.
Be sure to read the "Found" ads in your local paper regularly.
Barking Problem
Barking is generally considered a normal behavior that most dogs display. Some breeds tend to bark more than others, and domesticated dogs seem to bark more frequently and for different reasons than wild dogs. Barking is, after all, a method by which dogs communicate with one another and with their human companions.
However,dogs that bark in excess can become annoying or downright disruptive to the general peace. Some cities have ordinances to govern the barking of dogs and assess fines or other penalties to people who own dogs that bark excessively. Barking has even been known to cause neighborhood disputes and subsequent court battles.
It is prudent, therefore, to learn how to control your dog's barking. Todo so, it is important to understand the reasons that dog bark.
Why Do Dogs Bark? We've identified seven general reasons for barking. Each generates a different kind of bark with a unique sound.
1. Barking to induce play.
This bark is generally muffled, with accompanying tail wagging and thecharacteristic crouching with head lowered to the ground, hindquarters raised. Dogs will stop barking as the play proceeds. If you do not play with the dog, the animal will eventually give up and stop barking.
2. Barking to discipline young.
This sound usually involves a snap and a sharp bark, uttered when puppies or younger dogs do something that irritates an older dog. The bark itself generally does not persist, as one or two warnings usually stop younger animals in their tracks.
3. Barking to warn of danger.
This is a deep, repeated bark. The dog's tail will be motionless or lowered to the ground and the dog's forelimbs will be widely spaced on the ground. The barking will generally persist until the source of danger is removed or until the dog is able to retreat to a position of safety.
4. Barking to threaten intruders.
This bark may include an angry growl. The dog may raise its hackles and the hair on its back and tail. The dog will plant all four feet squarely and assume a fighting stance. As the dog barks, the teeth and gums will be readily visible. To stop such a bark, you must either remove the intruder or remove the dog from the situation. Sometimes, stepping to the dog's side and assuring it that all is well will cause it to stop barking.
5. Curiosity barking.
In general, this bark is displayed when there is some activity near a dog,but in such a place where the animal cannot have a good look. It is as if the dog is saying, "Hey, what's up?" The dog will display excitement and tend to pace erratically with a slightly wagging tail. To stop the barking, all you have to do is let the dog see what it is curious about.
6. Barking for companionship.
This is an incessant, repetitive bark, accompanied by a relatively motionless tail and concentration toward the area most associated with the dog's owners. The solution to this type of bark is to spend more time with the dog and to allow the dog access to the area where humans spend their time. This bark is often displayed by dogs that are ignored, tied out by themselves or locked up alone.
7. Barking for reward.
Finally, dogs can be inadvertently trained to bark and will persist with remarkable resistance. Barking can become associated with almost any activity that leads to reward. For instance, a dog that barks at garbage trucks because they intrude within its territory will learn that persistent barking leads to the disappearance of the trucks. This rewards the barking behavior, and a cycle is begun that is difficult to break. Persistent barking can then generalize to other objects-schoolbuses, neighbors walking by, children on the way to school, the paperboy, mailman, milkman and so on. To break the cycle, it is necessary to interrupt the natural system of reward.
Solutions to Barking:
The first five reasons for barking are rarely the cause of "excessive" or"annoying" barking. They are usually specific to certain situations and short-lived. The sixth and seventh reasons are those most likely to be considered problem barking, and they are not unrelated.
Barking for companionship can turn into barking for reward: The dog barks to get its owner's attention, the owner comes to the dog to tell it to be quiet, perhaps petting it or playing with it, and goes away again. The dog is quiet while the owner is there, but has learned that barking will bring the owner back. Thus the system of barking and reward is established. A solution, again, is to spend more time with your dog and have it near you rather than tied up somewhere separate from you. However, if your dog is separated from you and it begins to bark to get your attention, do not immediately go to the dog. It must learn that barking will not guarantee your presence. By spending more time with the dog at regular intervals not instigated by barking, your dog will feel more assured that it will get sufficient attention from you and will not have as much inclination to bark for companionship.
How do you teach a barking dog to distinguish between friends and strangers? The solution is to show the dog that certain individuals(garbage collectors, mailmen, milkmen) are, indeed, friends. To accomplish this, the dog has to be introduced to these people and given an opportunity to get to know them. While this is not always practical, it is nonetheless a potential solution. As you restrain your dog, stop delivery people and have a short conversation with them, letting them meet the dog for a brief period. Repeat and lengthen the process over the next few weeks. Eventually, your dog should accept these individuals and all will be well until your regular mailman is sick and another takes his place.
What do you do with a dog that barks at guests in your house? Onesolution is to take the dog to another room and give it something to do. Or, if the guest comes to your home often and you don't want to have to lock up the dog every time, work to gradually introduce one to the other. Have the guest get on his knees, pet the dog, offer it a treat, and more or less become part of the family. Let your dog establish the speed at which this relationship develops: Don't force it, or your dog may become alarmed by a "pushy" guest.
How do you deal with a dog that barks at the phone? This is simply a case of a dog that has been reward- ed for barking at the phone ringing. When the dog barks, someone eventually answers the phone and it stops ringing. To stop your dog from doing this, have a friend call and lett he phone ring until the dog loses interest. Continue over a period of days, and in time the dog will learn that barking at the phone accomplishes nothing.
Finally, what do you do with the dog that barks while you are away from home? There are several possible solutions. One is to act as if you are leaving, then stand outside the door until the dog barks. When it does,return and scold it verbally. Another is to get your dog a companion -but you might end up with two barkers! A third is to use a sound-activated tape recorder. When the dog barks, the sound switch turns on the tape recorder for a minute. The tape plays your voice scolding the dog. Some systems can repeat as many as 45 times while you are away.
The best way to reduce your dog's barking is to pay attention to the reasons for the bark. The best solution is prevention, so be aware of the possibilities and work to stop problem barking before it starts.
Helpful Dog Hints
Your dog gives you a lifetime of unconditional love, loyalty, and friendship. In return, she counts on you to provide her with food, water, safe shelter, regular veterinary care, exercise, companionship,and more. Take care of these ten essentials, and you'll be guaranteed to develop a rewarding relationship with your canine companion.
Outfit your dog with a collar and ID tag that includes your name, address, and telephone number. No matter how careful you are, there's a chance your companion may become lost. An ID tag greatly increases the chance that your pet will be returned home safely. Follow local laws for licensing your dog and vaccinating him for rabies.
Check with your local animal shelter or humane society for information regarding legal requirements, where to obtain tags, and where to have your pet vaccinated. Follow this simple rule: off property, on leash. Even a dog with a valid license, rabies tag, and ID tag should not be allowed to roam outside of your home or fenced yard. It is best for you, your community, and your dog to keep your pet under control at all times.
Give your dog proper shelter. A fenced yard with a dog house is a bonus, especially for large and active dogs;however, dogs should never be left outside alone or for extended periods of time. Dogs need and crave companionship and should spend most of their time inside with their family.
Take your dog to the veterinarian for regular check-ups. If you do not have a veterinarian, ask your local animal shelter or a pet-owning friend for a referral and check out our information on choosing a veterinarian.
Spay or neuter your dog. Dogs who have this routine surgery tend to live longer, be healthier, and have fewer behavior problems (e.g., biting, running away). By spaying or neutering your dog, you are also doing your part to reduce the problem of pet over population.
Give your pooch a nutritionally balanced diet, including constant access to fresh water. Ask your veterinarian for advice on what and how often to feed your pet.
Enroll your dog in a training class.Positive training will allow you to control your companion's behavior safely and humanely, and the experience offers a terrific opportunity to enhance the bond you share with your dog.
Check out our information on choosing a dog trainer. Give your dog enough exerciseto keep him physically fit (but not exhausted). Most dog owners find that playing with their canine companion, along with walking him twice a day, provides sufficient exercise.
If you have questions about the level of exercise appropriate for your dog, consult your veterinarian. Be loyal to and patient with your faithful companion. Make sure the expectations you have of your dog are reasonable and remember that the vast majority of behavior problems can be solved. If you are struggling with your pet's behavior, contact us or your veterinarian for advice.
Thursday, June 11, 2009
Investor or Partner Wanted: Business Plan summary
Partial Business Plan for Investor/Partner
Objectives: Show Patriotism sponsoring events working with wounded military vets. Breed horses, show them, sell them. Sell tack and accessories. Sell online products. Pet Sit/House Sit. Provide Security.Trail Rides, Boarding, B&B guests. Attend shows and other events.Work with the neighboring towns/community. Put them to work. It's a Win/Win situation.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will be a business entity which applies 21st
century technology and business practices to an ageless business
environment. Live business experimentation over the last 12 months has identified
that this modern approach to a traditional business yields a substantial
competitive edge and extraordinary customer appeal. The overall concept,
once fully operational, will be highly successful, able to sustain a
profitable company with the potential to expand exponentially.
This business plan is submitted in an effort to secure start-up funding
in the amount of $200,000 to allow Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch to graduate
from experimentation into a fully operational business entity. The
funding request incorporates a healthy ratio of additional investment
and operating capital. These are intended to provide the final pieces
necessary to implement the plan while providing a safe and realistic
ramp-up period towards a profitable future.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is currently a home based business, located
north of Orlando, in Seminole County, Florida, and is owned and operated
by Christi J. Hubbard and family. A successful business career
culminating in a final position as U.S. Sales & Operations Manager for
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch, in conjunction with over three years of
experience in the area of this business proposal, provides a foundation
of expertise and experience that further assures the success of this
venture.
The full implementation of this plan requires no further
employees, but does require land to be purchased for this business
location, thus providing for the lowest possible operating costs without
sacrificing any revenue potential. Rather, it concentrates on providing
a full range of traditional products (with a powerful and unique
addition) through e-commerce, event attendance, and home based sales.
Highlights 1.1 Business Overview
It is of critical importance at the outset of reviewing this business
plan, that the reviewer be willing to break some general preconceptions
over the general nature of Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch business. Wildcat's
Sanctuary and Ranch is not a farm. Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is not a working
horse ranch yet. WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH is a Web-centric, event vendor, and retail location resale company.
There are two traditional ways to help visualize WILDCAT'S SANCTUARY and
RANCH: 1. a pet store, selling pet quality animals (in this case horses) to
the general public. 2. A full line tack and equine supply store.
In example #1 above, this option simply does not currently exist for
the horse buyer (virtually every other type of pet, but not for horses).
Hobby horse owners are forced to purchase horses through either: A) a
"breed farm" offering a quality of horse well beyond the buyer’s needs
and price range, or B) through a variety of "horse trader" outlets, none
of which employ even a minimal level of acceptable business practice.
This leaves the buyer with the choice of paying too much for something
they do not need, or buying through unscrupulous sources that more often
than not, lead to a bad (and dangerous) purchase.
In example #2 above, tack and equine supply companies are a traditional
and solid business. However, not a single tack shop takes maximum
advantage of the symbiotic requirements of the horse and the supply.
Every horse buyer is a potential tack and supply customer. Every tack
and supply buyer is a potential horse buyer. It is only logical, and an
unfilled market niche, to combine the two, thereby offering the buyer a
1-stop shopping opportunity.
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH will operate a retail location at our location.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will attend equine events in Ocala, Florida;
Kentucky, and other nearby equine events as a vendor. Wildcat Sanctuary
Ranch will maintain a strong Web presence with an online catalog and
shopping capability. See our website at http://www.wildcatsanctuaryranch.com
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH applies modern business practices and
technology to one of the oldest and most reliable markets.
1.2 Personal Credit Worthiness
In the critical area of personal credit worthiness, we ask the reviewer
to make particular note of this section and include it with all
considerations for this loan and grant request. We have enjoyed a historically excellent personal credit history. Early in 1999 we began to identify the business opportunity that has since resulted in this business proposal and request for funding. We set our sights on this goal and began investing heavily, with every available personal resource, in the experimentation that has led to the current
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch formula. At times perhaps, we invested too
heavily. During the course of 1999 and through the present date, we have
had to carefully play the "cash flow game." At times we have fallen
behind, and at times we have pulled ahead. At present we are even. We
make note of this to the reviewer since we expect some degree of
negative reflection to appear on a standard credit report. We would ask
that the reviewer consider the level of dedication and investment that
we have put forth prior to seeking a formal funding package, along with
our credit rating prior to this time period. The key issue is that we have executed our personal finances responsibly in the past, and have only stretched our personal financial limits in pursuit of this opportunity. We hope you will consider these factors favorably.
1.3 Objectives
Successful first benchmark operation to achieve the following
measurable results: 20 location customers, attendance at two horse
events, and 500 "Web Hits" per month resulting in: 1. $4,500/month in
tack & product sales at an average of 30% net for $1,350/month revenue.
2. $1,000/month in manufactured product sales at an average of 60% net
for $600/month revenue. 3. $20,000/month in horse sales at an average of
30% net for $6,000/month revenue. For an initial achievement benchmark of $25,500 gross, $7,950 net, per month.
1.4 Mission
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will consolidate and legitimize the
representation and sale of a complete line of horse products, including
the horse itself, in a safe and professional business environment. It is
focused towards the needs of the pleasure horse owner, those most at
risk from the traditional horse selling business. Our success will be
built upon customer satisfaction brought about by complete business
integrity. We will remain constantly in search of new product offerings
which offer value to the customer and reasonable profit to Wildcat’s
SANCTUARY and RANCH. We will utilize modern technology and methodology to
insure Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch increases its visibility, customer base,
and resulting success. Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will establish itself as
the company that set the new standard of business in the pleasure horse
industry, and the one against which all others that follow will be compared.
2.0 Company Summary
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is a retail sales organization targeted at the
needs of the middle to upper class pleasure horse owner/buyer. It serves
this purpose in two primary ways. First, by providing a legitimate and
professional horse buying experience, virtually unavailable anywhere
else. Second, by providing a "1-Stop Shop" source for a complete line of
products needed to support, care for, and enjoy their horse.
2.1 Company Ownership
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH will be wholly owned and privately held by
Christi J. Hubbard, most likely as an LLC entity. The final business
form however, will be decided after consultation with a business
attorney to determine the most advantageous form given the specifics of
our business. The expense for this legal consultation and execution has
been included in the Start-Up Costs section of this business plan.
My Goal is to be competition for the following company which is very successful: Wounded Warriors hosted at Texas Dude Ranch
January 21, 2009|GBear
We spent a few days over Christmas at an amazing ranch resort in Graham Texas - Wildcatter Ranch. It was a bustling place. Great times were had by all! We went horseback riding, skeet shooting, canoeing, shot arrows, sang songs around the campfire with "Big Al" while making s'mores, fed the longhorns and horses.....the list goes on! But I learned that this particular group of Texans truly has a heart as big as Texas when it comes to the military and, in particular, the wounded troops.
This year, as they did last year, Wildcatter Ranch is shutting down the resort for a week and inviting a group of wounded warriors to spend a week. They'll do everything they want with the help of the Wounded Warrior Project and the staff at the resort. Everyone was so excited that I think the week of February 22nd will overshadow even Valentine's Day for the hosts. I think it's an amazing testimony to the owners and staff at the ranch of their patriotism and support of the military. I also think it's a very nice thought for the rest of us military families to see there are still groups, organizations and people out there who are anxious to do something in support of the troops! If you want to help out in any way or even just thank them for supporting the military - I'm sure the staff and owners would love to hear from the military to let them know how much we appreciate their continuing support of the troops.
Wildcatter Ranch Resort & Spa
6062 Hwy. 16 South
Graham, Texas 76450
888-462-9277 or 940-549-3500
Objectives: Show Patriotism sponsoring events working with wounded military vets. Breed horses, show them, sell them. Sell tack and accessories. Sell online products. Pet Sit/House Sit. Provide Security.Trail Rides, Boarding, B&B guests. Attend shows and other events.Work with the neighboring towns/community. Put them to work. It's a Win/Win situation.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will be a business entity which applies 21st
century technology and business practices to an ageless business
environment. Live business experimentation over the last 12 months has identified
that this modern approach to a traditional business yields a substantial
competitive edge and extraordinary customer appeal. The overall concept,
once fully operational, will be highly successful, able to sustain a
profitable company with the potential to expand exponentially.
This business plan is submitted in an effort to secure start-up funding
in the amount of $200,000 to allow Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch to graduate
from experimentation into a fully operational business entity. The
funding request incorporates a healthy ratio of additional investment
and operating capital. These are intended to provide the final pieces
necessary to implement the plan while providing a safe and realistic
ramp-up period towards a profitable future.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is currently a home based business, located
north of Orlando, in Seminole County, Florida, and is owned and operated
by Christi J. Hubbard and family. A successful business career
culminating in a final position as U.S. Sales & Operations Manager for
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch, in conjunction with over three years of
experience in the area of this business proposal, provides a foundation
of expertise and experience that further assures the success of this
venture.
The full implementation of this plan requires no further
employees, but does require land to be purchased for this business
location, thus providing for the lowest possible operating costs without
sacrificing any revenue potential. Rather, it concentrates on providing
a full range of traditional products (with a powerful and unique
addition) through e-commerce, event attendance, and home based sales.
Highlights 1.1 Business Overview
It is of critical importance at the outset of reviewing this business
plan, that the reviewer be willing to break some general preconceptions
over the general nature of Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch business. Wildcat's
Sanctuary and Ranch is not a farm. Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is not a working
horse ranch yet. WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH is a Web-centric, event vendor, and retail location resale company.
There are two traditional ways to help visualize WILDCAT'S SANCTUARY and
RANCH: 1. a pet store, selling pet quality animals (in this case horses) to
the general public. 2. A full line tack and equine supply store.
In example #1 above, this option simply does not currently exist for
the horse buyer (virtually every other type of pet, but not for horses).
Hobby horse owners are forced to purchase horses through either: A) a
"breed farm" offering a quality of horse well beyond the buyer’s needs
and price range, or B) through a variety of "horse trader" outlets, none
of which employ even a minimal level of acceptable business practice.
This leaves the buyer with the choice of paying too much for something
they do not need, or buying through unscrupulous sources that more often
than not, lead to a bad (and dangerous) purchase.
In example #2 above, tack and equine supply companies are a traditional
and solid business. However, not a single tack shop takes maximum
advantage of the symbiotic requirements of the horse and the supply.
Every horse buyer is a potential tack and supply customer. Every tack
and supply buyer is a potential horse buyer. It is only logical, and an
unfilled market niche, to combine the two, thereby offering the buyer a
1-stop shopping opportunity.
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH will operate a retail location at our location.
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will attend equine events in Ocala, Florida;
Kentucky, and other nearby equine events as a vendor. Wildcat Sanctuary
Ranch will maintain a strong Web presence with an online catalog and
shopping capability. See our website at http://www.wildcatsanctuaryranch.com
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH applies modern business practices and
technology to one of the oldest and most reliable markets.
1.2 Personal Credit Worthiness
In the critical area of personal credit worthiness, we ask the reviewer
to make particular note of this section and include it with all
considerations for this loan and grant request. We have enjoyed a historically excellent personal credit history. Early in 1999 we began to identify the business opportunity that has since resulted in this business proposal and request for funding. We set our sights on this goal and began investing heavily, with every available personal resource, in the experimentation that has led to the current
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch formula. At times perhaps, we invested too
heavily. During the course of 1999 and through the present date, we have
had to carefully play the "cash flow game." At times we have fallen
behind, and at times we have pulled ahead. At present we are even. We
make note of this to the reviewer since we expect some degree of
negative reflection to appear on a standard credit report. We would ask
that the reviewer consider the level of dedication and investment that
we have put forth prior to seeking a formal funding package, along with
our credit rating prior to this time period. The key issue is that we have executed our personal finances responsibly in the past, and have only stretched our personal financial limits in pursuit of this opportunity. We hope you will consider these factors favorably.
1.3 Objectives
Successful first benchmark operation to achieve the following
measurable results: 20 location customers, attendance at two horse
events, and 500 "Web Hits" per month resulting in: 1. $4,500/month in
tack & product sales at an average of 30% net for $1,350/month revenue.
2. $1,000/month in manufactured product sales at an average of 60% net
for $600/month revenue. 3. $20,000/month in horse sales at an average of
30% net for $6,000/month revenue. For an initial achievement benchmark of $25,500 gross, $7,950 net, per month.
1.4 Mission
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will consolidate and legitimize the
representation and sale of a complete line of horse products, including
the horse itself, in a safe and professional business environment. It is
focused towards the needs of the pleasure horse owner, those most at
risk from the traditional horse selling business. Our success will be
built upon customer satisfaction brought about by complete business
integrity. We will remain constantly in search of new product offerings
which offer value to the customer and reasonable profit to Wildcat’s
SANCTUARY and RANCH. We will utilize modern technology and methodology to
insure Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch increases its visibility, customer base,
and resulting success. Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch will establish itself as
the company that set the new standard of business in the pleasure horse
industry, and the one against which all others that follow will be compared.
2.0 Company Summary
Wildcat’s Sanctuary and Ranch is a retail sales organization targeted at the
needs of the middle to upper class pleasure horse owner/buyer. It serves
this purpose in two primary ways. First, by providing a legitimate and
professional horse buying experience, virtually unavailable anywhere
else. Second, by providing a "1-Stop Shop" source for a complete line of
products needed to support, care for, and enjoy their horse.
2.1 Company Ownership
WILDCAT’S SANCTUARY AND RANCH will be wholly owned and privately held by
Christi J. Hubbard, most likely as an LLC entity. The final business
form however, will be decided after consultation with a business
attorney to determine the most advantageous form given the specifics of
our business. The expense for this legal consultation and execution has
been included in the Start-Up Costs section of this business plan.
My Goal is to be competition for the following company which is very successful: Wounded Warriors hosted at Texas Dude Ranch
January 21, 2009|GBear
We spent a few days over Christmas at an amazing ranch resort in Graham Texas - Wildcatter Ranch. It was a bustling place. Great times were had by all! We went horseback riding, skeet shooting, canoeing, shot arrows, sang songs around the campfire with "Big Al" while making s'mores, fed the longhorns and horses.....the list goes on! But I learned that this particular group of Texans truly has a heart as big as Texas when it comes to the military and, in particular, the wounded troops.
This year, as they did last year, Wildcatter Ranch is shutting down the resort for a week and inviting a group of wounded warriors to spend a week. They'll do everything they want with the help of the Wounded Warrior Project and the staff at the resort. Everyone was so excited that I think the week of February 22nd will overshadow even Valentine's Day for the hosts. I think it's an amazing testimony to the owners and staff at the ranch of their patriotism and support of the military. I also think it's a very nice thought for the rest of us military families to see there are still groups, organizations and people out there who are anxious to do something in support of the troops! If you want to help out in any way or even just thank them for supporting the military - I'm sure the staff and owners would love to hear from the military to let them know how much we appreciate their continuing support of the troops.
Wildcatter Ranch Resort & Spa
6062 Hwy. 16 South
Graham, Texas 76450
888-462-9277 or 940-549-3500
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Military Wounded Warriors
http://www.fundable.com/groupactions/groupaction.2009-06-09.5981154627
Support a great cause.
Wounded Warrior Project. http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/ The Wounded Warrior Project was granted tax-exempt Federal I.D. number for donations is: #20-2370934.
Navy Seal Warrior Fund. http://www.sealfund.org/index.html To donate to the Navy SEAL Warrior Fund make checks payable to the Navy SEAL Warrior Fund (Tax ID #20-2827813)
This is a great cause. These soldiers need our help. Please help them by donating today and pass the word. Ask your friends, neighbors, and coworkers to help out today. Our Military Warriors go out to do a difficult job every day.
They risk their lives. Some of them don't return home, others are so severely wounded they need help paying their bills, caring for their families, and just surviving PTSD, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. Operation Redwing brings attention to our soldier's needs. We must help our fellow warriors out by donating today to provide medical help, bills paid, food, and other special needs they have.
Some like Marcus Luttrell will need long term rehabilitation to overcome the atrocities they've witnessed and suffered. Others like Michael Murphy left behind a family in need. Let's all stand together and help today.
I'm raising funds for the Navy Seal Warrior Fund and Wounded Warrior Project. I am donating all money donated to these funds. My father fought for his country in Korean War. My nephew is currently in the fight, active duty. I'm doing my part, now you do yours and donate today.
Stop by my website today and order a great gift while helping our Warriors! http://www.freewebs.com/wildcatsanctuaryranch
100% of all proceeds from sales from our webstores will be donated to these two wonderful charities. Our Military men and women put their lives on the line for us everyday. Those who have fallen left behind family with needs to be met. We can help meet those needs. Help thy neighbor, friend, or foe. In these economic times every penny counts so lets buy some great gifts and help our heroes today!
Group Leader: wildcatranch
Added Benefits for Contributors:
Every contributor will receive an email unless they provide an address for a thank you card. Every contributor in the area of my business will receive a discount for using my services. If ordering a great family or pet product, also receive a discount.
Related Web Site:
http://www.freewebs.com/wildcatsanctuaryranch
Support a great cause.
Wounded Warrior Project. http://www.woundedwarriorproject.org/ The Wounded Warrior Project was granted tax-exempt Federal I.D. number for donations is: #20-2370934.
Navy Seal Warrior Fund. http://www.sealfund.org/index.html To donate to the Navy SEAL Warrior Fund make checks payable to the Navy SEAL Warrior Fund (Tax ID #20-2827813)
This is a great cause. These soldiers need our help. Please help them by donating today and pass the word. Ask your friends, neighbors, and coworkers to help out today. Our Military Warriors go out to do a difficult job every day.
They risk their lives. Some of them don't return home, others are so severely wounded they need help paying their bills, caring for their families, and just surviving PTSD, Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. Operation Redwing brings attention to our soldier's needs. We must help our fellow warriors out by donating today to provide medical help, bills paid, food, and other special needs they have.
Some like Marcus Luttrell will need long term rehabilitation to overcome the atrocities they've witnessed and suffered. Others like Michael Murphy left behind a family in need. Let's all stand together and help today.
I'm raising funds for the Navy Seal Warrior Fund and Wounded Warrior Project. I am donating all money donated to these funds. My father fought for his country in Korean War. My nephew is currently in the fight, active duty. I'm doing my part, now you do yours and donate today.
Stop by my website today and order a great gift while helping our Warriors! http://www.freewebs.com/wildcatsanctuaryranch
100% of all proceeds from sales from our webstores will be donated to these two wonderful charities. Our Military men and women put their lives on the line for us everyday. Those who have fallen left behind family with needs to be met. We can help meet those needs. Help thy neighbor, friend, or foe. In these economic times every penny counts so lets buy some great gifts and help our heroes today!
Group Leader: wildcatranch
Added Benefits for Contributors:
Every contributor will receive an email unless they provide an address for a thank you card. Every contributor in the area of my business will receive a discount for using my services. If ordering a great family or pet product, also receive a discount.
Related Web Site:
http://www.freewebs.com/wildcatsanctuaryranch
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